Hells of Beppu: Colorful Hot Springs in Oita, Japan

On my last day in Oita, I decided to explore the Hells of Beppu. I woke up at 8 AM and enjoyed a surprisingly satisfying breakfast of cold udon noodles, dipped in a savory sauce. My Japanese dorm mate at the hostel, who visits Beppu annually for an onsen holiday, had cooked the meal that morning and kindly offered me a bowl. It was my first time eating noodles with ice—quite the unexpected treat!

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How to Get to Hells of Beppu

Five hells (Jigoku) are located at the Kannawa District and the other two can be found at Shibaseki District.

By Train: Take the JR Limited Express from Hakata Station in Fukuoka to Beppu Station. The journey takes about 2 hours. If you have the JR Northern Kyushu Rail Pass, this route is fully covered. From Beppu Station, you can catch a local bus or taxi to the Jigoku area.

By Bus: The Kamenoi Bus from Beppu Station runs regularly to the Hells. The bus stops directly at the main Jigoku sites, including Umi Jigoku, Chinoike Jigoku, and others.

By Car: If you’re driving, it’s a 15-20 minute ride from Beppu Station. Parking is available at each Jigoku.

Travel tip: Always have coins ready when riding a bus. Even better, get a Kamenoi Bus Day Pass (available for Beppu City only or Beppu City and Yufuin), which covers all the sites within Central Beppu. I didn’t purchase the Kamenoi Bus Day Pass because I only planned to take the bus to Kannawa District and back to Beppu Station from Shibaseki District. I thought the pass wouldn’t be worth it for me. In hindsight, this was a terrible decision. I should have gotten the pass to save myself some trouble. You’ll see why if you keep reading.

I was about to get off at Umi Jigoku mae bus stop when I handed 5,000 yen to the driver. He said the machine cannot accept it because the max is only 1,000 yen. I do not have any coins left for the bus fare (330 yen) and I don’t know how can I pay him. This obachan (granny) volunteered to pay for me. Although I did not understand her, she just said okay and smiled. Thank you obachan!

Hells of Beppu: Kannawa District

Access to all the Hells of Beppu costs 2,200 JPY. If you prefer to visit just the most popular ones, you can purchase individual tickets to Umi Jigoku, Oniyama Jigoku, and Chinoike Jigoku for 450 JPY each. Tickets are available for purchase on-site and don’t require advance reservations. For added convenience, you can also buy your Beppu Jigoku Onsen Ticket online.

Umi Jigoku

When I reached Umi Jigoku, or “Sea Hell,” I was immediately captivated by its stunning cobalt-blue waters. The vibrant color, created by the high temperature of the water—around 98°C (208°F)—was even more striking in person. Strolling through the beautifully landscaped gardens, I took a moment to relax at the foot baths and even tried a boiled egg cooked in the hot spring. Umi Jigoku is truly a must-see attraction for anyone visiting Oita Prefecture.

Oniishibozu Jigoku

Oniishibozu Jigoku, named after the bubbling mud pools resembling the shaved heads of monks, is a unique geothermal attraction in Beppu, Japan. This hot spring, with its grey, clay-like mud, offers a serene yet eerie experience, showcasing the natural beauty and geothermal activity that makes Beppu’s Hells famous.

Shiraike Jigoku

Shiraike Jigoku, or “White Pond Hell,” features milky white, mineral-rich waters surrounded by lush gardens in Beppu, Japan. The hot spring’s unique color is caused by a mix of calcium and magnesium, creating a tranquil and picturesque setting that highlights the diversity of Beppu’s geothermal wonders.

Kamado Jigoku

Kamado Jigoku, also known as the “Cooking Pot Hell,” is one of Beppu’s most interactive hot springs. Visitors can enjoy steam baths, foot baths, and even taste food cooked with the spring’s steam. The vibrant, multi-colored pools make Kamado Jigoku a fun and visually striking geothermal experience in Beppu.

Oniyama Jigoku

Oniyama Jigoku, or “Monster Mountain Hell,” is known for its steaming, powerful waters and resident crocodiles. The hot spring’s unique environment allows the reptiles to thrive, making Oniyama Jigoku one of the most fascinating and unusual attractions in Beppu.

Yama Jigoku

Yama Jigoku, or “Mountain Hell,” in Beppu, Japan, is a small but intriguing hot spring surrounded by rocky terrain. Its steamy waters create a barren, otherworldly landscape, adding to the mystique of Beppu’s Hells. Visitors can also see various animals, like flamingos, in the small zoo adjacent to the hot spring.

Hells of Beppu: Kannawa District to Shibaseki District

It was around 10:30 AM when I finished seeing all the hells in Kannawa District. My next destination was Shibaseki District, the location of Chinoike Jigoku (Blood Pond Hell) and Tatsumaki Jigoku (Tornado Hell). To get there, take the number 16 bus from Kannnawa and get off at Chinoike jigoku mae bus stop. It was about 3 kilometers away from the bus stop at Kannawa. Normally, people drive or take a bus to get there, but it’s possible to walk between the areas in about 40 minutes.

I felt brave when I decided to walk to Shibaseki District. It seemed like a good idea at the time—until I realized the journey would take me along an isolated mountain highway with very little sidewalk. As drivers whizzed by, they stared at me incredulously; it’s not every day you see someone walking this route! An eerie, abandoned village dampened my excitement, and a looming tunnel triggered a lot of anxiety. After 40 long minutes (and some serious self-criticism), I finally reached Shibaseki District!

Hells of Beppu: Shibaseki District

Chinoike Jigoku

Thank the heavens I arrived safely in Shibaseki District. I was surprised when I first saw the striking red color of Chinoike Jigoku, or “Blood Pond Hell,” in Beppu, Japan. The vivid hue, caused by the high iron content and minerals in the water, makes it one of the most unique hot springs I’ve ever visited. As one of Beppu’s Seven Hells (Jigoku), this natural wonder offers more than just a stunning visual—it’s a fascinating glimpse into Japan’s geothermal activity.

Tatsumaki Jigoku

Tatsumaki Jigoku, or “Tornado Hell,” is a unique hot spring in Beppu, Japan, known for its impressive geyser-like eruptions. The geothermal spring shoots scalding water high into the air, creating a stunning display. Visiting Tatsumaki Jigoku was my first time seeing a geyser, setting the stage for my later encounter with the Great Geysir in Iceland.

Ramen at Hakata Station

My tour ended at 1 PM so I went back to Beppu Guesthouse to prepare for my departure. I bought a bento at the bento factory near Beppu Station. At 2 PM, I boarded a Limited Express train from Beppu Station to Hakata Station, arriving around 4 PM. I spent my remaining time at JR Hakata City, savoring my last moments in Japan. To bid farewell, I indulged in a bowl of ramen at Ippudo Hakata—it was absolutely delicious!

Loving my Northern Kyushu Travel Series so far? Keep going with my visit to Usuki Samurai District in Ōita, Japan!