Since 2012, visiting the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) and Panmunjom, officially known as the Joint Security Area (JSA), has been at the top of my bucket list. The idea of experiencing the palpable tension along the infamous border that separates North and South Korea has always fascinated me. As a history enthusiast, I also knew this tour would offer valuable insights into the events of the Korean War and the division that followed, deepening my understanding of this critical period in history.
If you’re planning a trip to South Korea, I highly recommend adding a DMZ and JSA tour to your itinerary. It’s not only a unique opportunity to witness history firsthand, but it also provides a deeper understanding of the ongoing tensions between the two Koreas. Read on to know what to expect on this tour, how to book it, and essential tips for first time visitors.
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About Korean DMZ and JSA
If you’re not familiar with the Korean DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) and JSA (Joint Security Area), it’s the heavily guarded border that separates North and South Korea, where tensions run high. The DMZ was established after the Korean War (1950-1953) by pulling back military forces 1.2 miles (2 km) on each side, creating a buffer zone. Stretching across approximately 150 miles (240 km) of the Korean Peninsula, the DMZ marks the end of the war and remains one of the most militarized borders in the world.
Within the DMZ is Panmunjom, also known as the “truce village,” which serves as a site for peace negotiations. It has hosted several key conferences between North and South Korea, making it a historically significant location.
Korean DMZ Guided Tour
When my friends and I were planning our South Korea itinerary, I suggested joining a DMZ tour on our 4th day. I explained what we would see and how thrilling the experience would be. Thankfully, my friends agreed to go—I never imagined it would be that easy to convince them! Lol. Afterward, I looked up some tours online and read reviews from past visitors. I found a DMZ and JSA tour in Klook, which costs KRW 160K (about PHP 6,000+) per person.
Currently, both North Korea and South Korea allow tours of the DMZ, but only through accredited tour companies. Unfortunately for DIY travelers, it’s not possible to explore the DMZ on your own. Having a guide is essential, not only for understanding the history and significance of the area but also for safety. The DMZ has the world’s highest density of landmines, and it’s crucial to follow the tour guide’s instructions for your protection.
Things to Consider Before the Tour
What to Pack and Wear for the Tour
Comfortable Shoes: You’ll be walking quite a bit during the tour, so it’s important to wear sturdy, comfortable shoes. Many of the areas you’ll visit, like the Third Tunnel and Dorasan Observatory, involve some walking on uneven terrain, so sneakers or comfortable hiking shoes are highly recommended.
Dress Code: While the DMZ isn’t a formal setting, there are certain guidelines to follow regarding clothing. Avoid wearing clothing that could be seen as disrespectful or overly casual, such as shorts, ripped jeans, or revealing outfits. In general, dressing conservatively is the best approach.
Age and Health Restrictions for Visitors
Age: Generally, visitors must be at least 10 years old to join the tour. Some tours may have a maximum age limit, so it’s best to check with your tour operator in advance if you are traveling with young children or elderly individuals.
Health Concerns: While the tour is mostly a bus ride with stops at various locations, some areas, like the Third Tunnel, require walking in narrow, steep conditions. Visitors with mobility issues may find these areas difficult to navigate. Additionally, visitors with heart conditions, respiratory issues, or other health concerns may want to avoid physically strenuous parts of the tour.
Korean DMZ Day Tour from Seoul
Assembly at Yongsan
On tour day, we visited the USO Tour Office at Camp Kim near Samgakji Station (Lines 4/6, Exit 10). After confirming our reservation with our passports, we boarded the bus at 10:30 am and met Haley, our lively guide, who explained the day’s rules and itinerary with enthusiasm.
Third Tunnel (44 Kilometers from Seoul)
Our tour departed from Camp Kim, making several stops on the way to Panmunjom (JSA), including the Third Tunnel, a 1,635-meter (1.1-mile) passageway dug by North Korea with the intent of reaching Seoul within an hour for invasion. Unfortunately, I couldn’t take any photos inside the tunnel, as my bulky SLR had to be stored in a locker—a rule I actually appreciated. Exploring the tunnel is no easy feat and requires significant leg strength, making it unsuitable for individuals with heart conditions or mobility limitations.
Dorasan Observatory
Our next stop was the Dorasan Observatory, where we could see into North Korea. Thankfully, the weather was perfect that day, giving us a clear view of the North. However, the landscape looked eerily like a ghost town, and I didn’t spot a single North Korean. Haley mentioned there were snipers stationed on the other side, so we had to follow instructions carefully—talk about nerve-wracking!
After our delicious bulgogi lunch, our group visited the Gyeongui Train Line, a railway that once connected North and South Korea before hostilities broke out in the 1940s. We also explored Dorasan Station, built by South Korea with the hope that the peninsula might one day reunite. Haley explained that if reunification happens, this train line could allow travelers to reach Europe or Russia in just 8 days. Imagine that—a truly epic journey!
Panmunjom (Joint Security Area)
While every stop was fascinating, the highlight of the tour for me was Panmunjom (JSA). At the appointed time, we passed several checkpoints where a U.S. Army officer verified our passports.
Our first stop was Camp Bonifas, a small base housing U.S. and South Korean soldiers. There, we entered Ballinger Hall for a short video, historical briefing, and instructions about the JSA. Before entering the blue building, the U.S. Army officer warned us against any gestures or unauthorized photos. These rules were critical for safety.
Despite the serious atmosphere, we couldn’t resist taking selfies with the South Korean guards in their fierce Taekwondo stances. Touristy, I know! The guards remained stoic while tourists giggled and snapped photos, forgetting for a moment the gravity of the location.
We were later instructed to stand outside, facing North Korea’s large beige building across the blue structures. A North Korean officer was visible in the distance, nicknamed “Bob” by soldiers because they always see him.
The Bridge of No Return
Our final stop was the Bridge of No Return, first used for Prisoners of War exchanges in 1953. The name itself is self explanatory, once you cross the bridge, you can never go back. I wonder what happened to the prisoners who chose to go back to North Korea.
Final Thoughts
The DMZ and JSA tour was absolutely worth it. Standing at the border, I couldn’t stop thinking about the countless lives lost during the Korean War and the ongoing struggles faced by those living in a divided nation. The experience was a profound mix of fascination and sadness. It also made me deeply reflect on the fragility of peace and the immense efforts still needed for reconciliation. This wasn’t just a tour—it was an emotional, thought-provoking journey that I will cherish forever.
If you’re planning a trip to South Korea, this tour is a must. It’s more than a history lesson; it’s a chance to witness the complexities of a divided nation firsthand and reflect on the enduring hope for reunification.
